The coastal drive along the length of the Coromandel Pennisula rivaled even the Great Ocean Road in places. Winding roads opened up to spectacular views of waves crashing against cliffs on one side, and steep forest greens on the other. We made a lunch stop in quaint little Coromandel Town, where a gold mining past was clear to be seen in everything from the local laundromat to the town saloon. Everything western-style. We made a little stop at New Chums Beach along the way – it’s an amazing little place tucked away in the bay, currently the focus of an enormous amount of protest from the entire Coromandel Peninsual. Developers are wanting to commercialize the area – which hopefully won’t be approved. It’s easy to see why they’re eyeing the area though, you can’t help but want to buy property there yourself.

Our last minute change to stop in Mt. Maunganui in the Bay of Plenty for the night (rather than Whakatane as planned) landed us in a town neither of us could help but love. We could so live here, at least for a while. The people here seemed even more relaxed, more at ease, than other places to date (is that even possible?), and it’s just the right amount larger than other towns we’ve stopped in. A Scotsman we talked to (I was wearing my Canada t-shirt and he was planning a trip to Canada so he stopped to talk to us) must have felt the same way – he came here to visit 10 years ago and still hasn’t left. We’d have enjoyed a few more days here, to say the least, and were sorry to have to leave after a day and a half.

We managed to squeeze in a hike to the top of Mt. Maunganui before the sun set for the day – to see the beaches on either side of the peninsula and the town in the middle (the mountain sits at the very tip of the peninsula, the once-volcano jutting abruptly up out of the sea). Loads of locals in fitness clothes either walked or ran up the track – a habit we’d agreed we’d definitely get into if we lived here. And the beaches – wide, white and relatively devoid of all but a few people playing ball. We stopped for a while near the top to watch a group of paragliders soaring on air currents blasting up from the base of the mountain. They came here every day, said one guy when I asked, sometimes… ok often.. cutting out early from work to spend an hour or so flying before heading home for dinner. What a life eh? The people living here really know how to take advantage of their fortunate surroundings.

Rotorua we’d meant to spend 2-3 days in, but thankfully we had a better suggestion from Kelvin, Tanya’s Dad back in Brisbane, when we were visiting there. He’d recommended the Tongariro Alpine Crossing (widely touted as the best day hike in New Zealand) – so we shifted our plans slightly and spent just a single day in Rotorua instead, which in the end was plenty. We ate a lake side lunch, watched some black swans nip at the fingers of a small girl trying to feed them, and then made our way out to Hell’s Gate Thermal Park to check out some of the must-see geothermal activitity that Rototua is so well known for. It stunk to high heaven of rotten egg (thanks to the sulphur) but you get used to that relatively quickly. Since we were there we opted to try out the mud baths followed by a dip in the sulphur pool (which is supposed to be very good for your skin). Fun afternoon (although we’re still fighting with the egg-stench – washing and re-washing clothes that came into contact with our swimsuits that day. Reminds me of a certain Seinfeld episode and the smell they claimed had a life of its own…) We’re laughing at the power of this beast – an interesting souvenir to say the least.

On to Taupo next.

More photos are posted at Flickr

In Doubtless Bay we overnighted in a tiny little town called Mangonui. Very very quaint – with not much more than the sailing club, a bottle shop, a few boutiques, a fish and chip shop and the information centre. On our walk through town we quickly came to realize that what you see is what you get – there wasn’t any more hiding around the bend. But so cozy. We had our fish and chips from the “World Famous Mangonui Fish and Chip Shop” – mentioned in every guidebook published in the northern hemisphere, and yes, that snapper was melt in your mouth delicious. And here we thought we were all batter and chipped out – 4 times in a month is enough for any aged artery thanks – but when the whole region’s specialty is fish and chips, you try the fish and chips (even when the last region’s specialty was also fish and chips). After this though, I think we’re both good. Pass the salad please. Went to (a deserted) Coopers Beach afterwards to walk some of it off and to skip a few stones in the ocean.

The next morning we joined an excursion to see Cape Reinga (the northern tip of New Zealand), try some dune surfing and drive on the sand down 90 Mile Beach. Cape Reinga is where the Maori believe the spirits of the recently deceased jump from this world to the next. There is still an old tree there with roots shaped like steps down to the water which is said to be the leaping point. It made me think of my dear granddad and where it was he left this world – is there one in Denmark too? (and missing him with a great big ache). It was a spectacular location – with dramatic cliffs and a tip out to the crashing waves where the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean meet. We had a bit of time so Jan and I hiked a little further – for some amazing views of the coastline down below. As a side note – the lighthouse was using solar panels – a sight I love to see.

Next we drove out to the massive sand dunes on the east coast to try some dune surfing. We hadn’t thought much about how high we might actually be surfing from, or how steep, so were a bit shocked when we found ourselves hiking the biggest dune we’ve ever seen in our lives, with such a high incline that it took us a long while to get to the top – to turn around and fly down the side of it face down on a boogy board in about 5 seconds flat. So much fun!. We managed 2 goes in the time we had (Jan managed 2 and a half – he climbed half way up for a last go) – and each time just got better (and faster!). I remember thinking that “if sand in my underwear is the biggest problem I have today, then life is pretty blimmin’ good, isn’t it.”

We rounded out the tour with a drive along (on) 90 mile beach (which is actually 64 miles, but the remaining 36 come from adding the next beach into the calculation). Again – nothing commercialized – no hotels, no houses, no ice cream stands. Just completely untouched, protected national land – without a soul in sight (apart from our group). The clouds had rolled in by then, but it just added to the beauty of it. A seemingly endless stretch of beach, with fluffy clouds mirrored in the tide waters. You couldn’t be anything but quiet here… we need more places like that.

I know that more can always be done, but my impression is that the New Zealand government puts a lot of energy and funding into protecting and creating national (land and marine) reserves. They’re also (delightfully) hysterical about recycling here like they are many places in Canada, which is something I’ve really missed seeing in Denmark. It’s good to see that focus again here and the clear sense of individual responsibility. New Zealanders seem to have such a respect for their environment. Wonderful.

More photos posted at Flickr

Auckland is definitely the City of Sails – there were boats, boating accessories, boat trailer ads, boats, boats, boats – just about everywhere we looked. From the iconic Sky Tower we saw kilometers of marina’s (the southern hemisphere’s biggest if I’ve got my facts right) and countless sails out in the harbour. Apparently there are more boats per capita here than in any other city in the world. There were jumpers (attached to cables) from the top of the Sky Tower – it was shocking to see them swoosh past the windows. Jan was a definite “no way” when I suggested we try it. The glass floor panels send a jolt to the stomach too (honestly – skydiving is so much less scary than heights where you can still make out what you’d land on). Spent the afternoon at the Auckland National Museum – for the Maori collections (beautiful) and a rather touristy Maori performance (although I was glad to hear some of the descriptions and explanations that went with it) – and walked through the old neighbourhood of Parnell on our way back to the centre.

I loved (adored!) Elliot Stables – an historic old building housing several (very unique) restaurants with shared central seating in addition to their own. We were back twice – to the same French bistro (Torchon French Créperie) – for dinner and the next day a brunch, the food was that fantastic. The chef was the most happy-non-arrogant-charming-fluffy-haired French person I’ve ever met. The atmosphere was so authentic: made for savouring the time you’ve set aside to sit in a café. Note to self – I need to go back to France someday soon.

Our second day out, we took a ferry over to Waiheke Island for a good half day hike along the southern track in the sunshine. Just what we needed. Up and down grassy green rolling hills, past wineries and orchards, through forests and along the coastline. We stopped towards the end of the day at the Cable Bay Winery for a glass of chilled Reisling (Jan had the Sauvingon Blanc) and some of their home grown olives. Delicious. The sun set just before we caught the last ferry back to Auckland, and we ended our stay there on a very positive note.

Next day we hired a car – an old Nissan Sunny (yes, it was called Sunny) fully equipped with a cassette deck and a ‘you’re in reverse beep’ – the kind usually reserved for buses and trucks (and yes we say with a loud voice “ Der bakkes/ Backing!” whenever the beep starts). That’s what you get for last minute bookings. She has a hard time with all the hills and mountain driving, but we’re in no rush so it doesn’t matter. We’re proud of her little sewing machine engine for getting us this far. Our first stop was Karekare Beach (the stunning black sand beach where they filmed The Piano) and afterwards Piha Beach (also stunning) – before making our way north to Paihia in the Bay of Islands. What you notice about these places (contrary to the places we saw in Australia) is that they haven’t been commercialized at all. You park and then hike your way through a forest trail and sand dunes to get to the beach, and there is not a hotel or an ice cream stand in sight. It’s just… peaceful.

More Auckland, Waiheke, Karekare and Piha photos are posted at Flickr

Tasmania has been a real experience in positivity. There hasn’t been much that hasn’t been absolutely worth loving here in Hobart. We arrived Friday and were met by the maddest hotel matron this side of the equator – totally off her rocker and 100% out to make sure everyone’s taken care of. The things that come out of her mouth are at the same time shocking, politically incorrect and still somehow totally side-splitting. Look up Astor Hotel in Hobart on TripAdvisor.com and read the deluge of love Tildy’s guests have for her… It goes on for pages.. no exaggeration.

Saturday morning (and most of the day) we wandered our way through one of the best artsy fartsy outdoor markets I’ve ever come across. And yes – I do remember the post I wrote about Victoria Market in Melbourne just last week – but there’s a difference here people – VM is foods and things while Salamanca here in Hobart is known far and wide for it’s handmade pieces and works from local artists. Yes, our days here were lined up to make sure we made it to this Saturday only event, and yes – Jan is probably suffering from market overload. Thankfully fudge vendors tend to be pretty standard at these things… which as a rule of thumb tends to buy me a couple of extra hours (fudge being a happy new discovery for him).

The harbour front in Hobart is lovely – with rows of (convict-built) stone merchant houses hosting cafés, galleries and various other shops and restaurants. The town centre and the old Battery Point neighbourhood boast one heritage building after another – from sweet little labourer cottages to two-story shop-fronts straight out of a western movie. Melt in your mouth (fresh) fish and chips, sitting seaside, topped the day off perfectly.

Sunday we were out with an adventure group for a speed boat tour around Bruny Island. Thrill element aside, it was really something special to see the rock formations, landscapes and wildlife around Bruny from both land and sea, with commentary and guiding from one hell of a smart-ass hilarious Tassie. The guides absolutely love their jobs – and it shows. We all had the fantastic day they’d promised us (aside perhaps from the few who fell seasick) and we lucked out with another whale sighting (we’re starting to think the world’s whale population is down here on holiday too).

Our last full day was meant to be with a tour out to Port Arthur, but late the evening before – the tour operators cancelled out on us – a bit crap, but we certainly can’t complain that it’s happened to us very often on this trip. So no Port Arthur. Too late to book anything else, we decided instead to make the most of the sunshine and the blue skies – so we went for a hike up through Queens Domain, through a mix of wild bush and carefully tended parkland. The views of Hobart from the summit were beautiful, and the wild little parrots kept us company along the Soldiers Walk, through the Botanical Gardens and out into the trails.

Tasmania’s an incredibly special place. I’d love to come back here again and spend some weeks or months exploring the rest of the island – I feel like we’ve only just scratched the surface here. There’s a real feeling of community that you can’t help but pick up on right away – people went to the market on Saturday as much to shop as to socialize with their neighbours and friends, and the city overall (physically and people-wise) seems to maintain its small-town charm and coziness without missing out on some of the better parts of city living. No wonder it’s such a sticky place – so many people we met first visited Hobart years ago.. and just never left…

More photos are posted at Flickr

Over the weekend we rented a car and drove up to Mossman Gorge for a hike along the Circuit Trail and a swim in the river (the only spot up there where it’s safe to swim as there are no crocodiles). Everywhere else is a strict no-no – crocs are potentially everywhere. The rainforest is lush and tightly packed and dripping with moisture – it’s like being in a greenhouse. The plants are happy and growing like mad. Unfortunately so were the mosquitos – so the swim in the river was as much for the experience of it as it was to sooth our many mosquito bites.

The drive up to Cape Tribulation was as much a part of the experience as was being there. Sugar cane grew everywhere we looked and dense green rainforest lined the mountain sides. The road became more and more winding as we went, and vines hung down from kilometers of tree-archways over the road. The drizzly rain cleared up in the afternoon enough so that it didn’t put a damper on our Jungle Surfing (zip lining) excursion – but started up full force again just afterwards (how’s that for timing). Somehow you don’t mind being drenched when it’s still 30 degrees out. I’m super proud of Jan for going through with all 4 lengths of the zip-lining despite his fear of heights and the 25 meters up. I don’t think any of us were fear-free, but he definitely took the biggest leap.

We overnighted at an eco-retreat half way up to Cape Tribulation – the sounds in the rainforest at night are super-sonic! The rainforest right outside of our window was a new experience for us too. Cape Tribulation beach was smaller than I’d expected but more dramatic – with the rainforest growing right up to the edge of the white sandy beach. (Cow Bay as well). No swimming of course (crocodile warnings) – but it was beautiful to walk along – stormy weather or not – which somehow seemed fitting.

On our way back to Port Douglas we joined a tour of the Daintree River for some crocodile spotting. It wasn’t as touristy as we thought it might be, and the guide was pretty fantastic at finding little crocodile hatchlings, a big croc affectionately named Elizabeth, and a fruit bat the size of a golf ball. Speeding up and down the river in a boat on a hot afternoon wasn’t so bad either. The rainforest portion of our trip was all in all super informative (even our zip lining guides were educated botanists) – and the scenery set new bars on how many shades of green, species of trees and colourful birds we could ever expect to see in such a short time.

I loved how much Eco-tourism, and living/traveling green plays a part of daily life and business in this part of Australia. It’s such a positive sign of things to come, with environmental consciousness playing an important part in people’s destination choices – mine included.