Category Archives: travel

OZ + NZ

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Australia & NZ : planning

I’ve had trip research and planning up to my eyeballs the last few weeks. Luxury problem I know. This one’s been lurking for a few years – the Oz trip, and it finally feels like the right time to go. The money is finally saved up, the timing with work actually fits (sort of) and all signs point to “GO”.

A big part of this trip will be catching up with my great friend Tanya of 12 years. We met in Vancouver all those years ago where we worked in a bike shop near Stanley Park – she was on a work visa and I was between semesters at university. Man alive we had so much fun. She’s always had this rule about doing something new and boundary-pushing on her birthday – so despite her fear of heights – the 4 of us went sky diving in Abbotsford that September. The plane was too small to hold more than 5 people (the pilot, 2 jumpers and 2 tandem instructors) – so we split into two groups. I won’t ever forget laying on the grass with her sister before it was our turn, the plane so far up that when they jumped out they weren’t more than specks in the sky – and we could hear her. We could hear her screaming from all the way up there. I have to give it to the woman – afraid of heights and jumping out of a plane – she’s got some balls. Whether the instructor got his hearing back after that is another story. I think the last time I saw her was about 6 years ago when she was back in Vancouver on her way up to Alaska. So it’s about bloody time we met up again, and I can’t wait.

There are some (too many) weeks yet till we leave, but we’ll be traveling the east coast of Australia – flying around a bit so that we can work Tanya’s 2 week holiday in with something she’s never seen – The Blue Mountains, and so that we can avoid spending our days behind the wheel of a car (which doesn’t really appeal to either of us). We might give up seeing some of the things in between, but we’ll have more time to enjoy the places we do see – is our thinking. That said – we’ll be renting a car a couple of times- up in Cairns/ Port Douglas for some not too far away day trips into the rainforest at Cape Tribulation, and then in Melbourne so that we can drive the Great Ocean Road for a couple of days as well. Tanya will be showing us the Gold Coast/ Byron Bay, and we’ll be on Fraser Island for some days with a group. Tasmania’s on the list (the planning for which has been delegated to Jan) and then it’s on to New Zealand. We’d originally planned to combine the Oz trip with Vietnam/Cambodia – but we’d hit monsoon season in SE Asia – and that doesn’t sound too brilliant – Angkor Wat or not. So that stays on the list for now. When Jan suggests a weekend in a summer house in Sweden, he says I can add it to the list as number 427.

The second (smaller) half of our trip is to the North Island of New Zealand. There seems to be a lot of debate about what to see if you only have 3 weeks in NZ  (and again – aren’t into driving 8 hours a day), and while a lot of friends and forums have leaned towards the South Island – the North Island looks to have a greater contrast in landscape. By that I mean that it looks less like what I’m used to (the South Island looks – in photos – a LOT like British Columbia, which I LOVE, but which isn’t something super new. But it IS reason to go back… We’ll finish up in Abel Tasman Nation Park though – so we will see just a bit of the SI. Otherwise it’s Bay of Islands, Coromandel Peninsula, Whakatane (White Island), Rotorura, Waitamo, Wellington and then Abel Tasman.

If anyone’s got any suggestions (what you liked best) or tips on what you think we might like to try to see/try/taste/experience while we’re there – let me know!

Summer Visits + Being Tourists

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playing tourist
bikes bikes bikes
live video installation (of the little mermaid while she's at the world Expo in China) at the spot where she would otherwise be sitting
Frederiksbergslot (Opera on Location)
on board the military ships
Kronborg Castle in HelsingørIt’s been so good having my folks in town. They’re usually here for a few days before heading over to visit family in Jylland, and then back for a few days more before heading back to Vancouver (although this time they were traveling on to Barcelona, followed by a whirlwind two week tour of the coastal cities of Southern Europe – I think they sail at night and get one full day at each stop – a sample tour you could call it. That way they know what they’d like to come back and see some more of next time). Believe me – I tried my darndest to negotiate my way into one of their suitcases.

It’s become standard now for us to do a lot of biking as Copenhagen is brilliant for that (if I haven’t raved about that aspect a hundred times already) – and not that you could ever run out of places to bike… but after 3 years and a lot of kms… the thought did enter my head (and I was hard pressed to come up with an answer) – what haven’t they already seen? Both my parents are great for being super active, and open to just about anything. I think retirement is suiting them both better than they’d expected (or maybe it would be more accurate to say than the rest of us had expected – having seen them pull crazy long work days/ weekends for so many years). Having put everything into their business – I can’t think of anyone who better deserves the time now.

This year we biked along the coast and up to Dyrehaven, through the woods and fields in there and back to the city. Fantastic day (plus a flat tire repair rescue from Dad) – and plenty of sunshine despite the forecasts listed on our iPhones (seriously, that weather app is inaccurate way too often). We ate at some of our latest finds/favourites – Les Trois Cochons in Vesterbro, Den Lille Fede on Store Kongensgade and Told og Snaps; spent an afternoon in Dragør, and then a weekend with everyone in Jylland. Saw Opera on Location at Frederiksberg Castle (can’t say enough about that one, we loved it!), and (Tim Rushton’s) Dansk Danseteater at the Politigaard (the police headquarters building of all places – amazing courtyard setting). Got up to Helsingør for a day (so that the guys could golf in Humlebæk) and Mom and I could “sightsee”…. ok, well it starts with “s” anyways (shopping). We did see a bit of Kronborg Castle (used by Shakespear as the setting for Hamlet) – but it was admittedly a quick look to prove that we hadn’t just shopped and talked all day… I’d be spoiling the secret here if I didn’t think that the bags had already given us away…

Thanks for a great great visit. Already looking forward to next year…

Stampede leather under my feet

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Apparently I’ve got a case of stampede leather under my feet – my Mormor’s words, not mine. The more I travel, the longer grows my list of places to see. Rekjavik – check. Stockholm, Warsaw, Dubrovnik, Prague, Florence, Valencia, Budapest, Amsterdam – check check check. Berlin – check. Paris – ah Paris – there’s no checking that off, I could go back again and again. Berlin & Amsterdam too. Not that you could ever really check anything off – there being a million different ways to see any given place – it can be so different every time you go back, depending on who you’re with, your own state, and countless other factors. Your classic addiction – the more you feed it the more you need it. But I don’t need to explain that here – most people I know will hop on a plane out of town given the slightest opportunity.

We’ve got a pretty interesting schedule coming up (a post for another day) but for today I’m reflecting on some of the places that have really stood out over the last few years.

Camino de Santiago. Spain. July 2007. Experience rich, challenging (well worth every blister) and a few hundred kilometers that will stay with me the rest of my life. The big take away: life is only as complicated as we make it. Fantastic the way a good long walk in the sunshine helps you to see the value of simplicity. I’ve only walked half way (time constraints) – so I still have the last half to look forward to…  Jump to the Camino photo set on flickr

Tomatina Festival. Buñol, Spain. August 2007. Hands down the funnest 2 hours of my life. I can still hear someone screaming “I’m allergic to tomatoes!” And just the screaming in general (hilarious). Found a tomato seed in my ear close to a week later, having received (and given) a thorough tomato pelting. The Camino and the Tomatina festival in one summer – yeah, that was a good couple of months.. Jump to the Tomatina photo set on flickr

Lisbon, Portugal. July 2008. Glorious weather, lovely people, great hiking and custard filled cakes. Need I say more? Jump to the Lisbon photo set on flickr

Reykjavik, Iceland. October 2009. My sister was with us on this trip, which made it extra special. Oh – and riding Icelandic ponies had been a dream for years. The trekking, the Blue Lagoon, the tin houses – all a bonus. Jump to the Reykjavik photo set on flickr

Paris, France. April 2009. We stayed in the Saint Germain de Prés district this time, which couldn’t have been more ideal. And there’s no better weekend than Paris, walking along the Seine, sipping red wine and tasting amazing French cuisine – with the one you love. Aww. Jump to the Paris photo set on flickr

Vienna, Austria. December 2008. A long weekend with my mom (the first time we’ve ever done something like this just us two, and what with 1000′s of km between us now it was great to have the time together). So to be honest it wouldn’t have mattered where we went, it’d have meant a lot to me. As it happens, Vienna during the Christmas season was magical – full of lights, markets, mulled wine, opera, classical music, the Museum Quarter – and of course the Spanish Riding School. Jump to the Vienna photo set on flickr

Florence, Italy. April 2008. The city itself is absolutely beautiful and the Tuscan food is to die for. I was here for the CHI 2008 conference (plus a few extra days) and what sticks out in my mind (this being my second visit) – is how warm, happy and welcoming everyone is in this city (which was even more apparent after a couple of days in Venice). Jump to the Florence photo set on Flickr

Budapest, Hungary. October 2008. Thermal spas, a tough history and the world’s best goulash. We admit to not quite acquiring a taste for Palinka (slam-your-fist-on-the-table-Hungarian brandy), but the festivals at the castle grounds, ordering sausage by the meter, and ice cream in the shape of flowers well made up for it. Jump to the Budapest photo set on flickr

Impossible though, to pick just a few places – as each trip has had its own moments and amazing corners – that perfect little back garden café in Warsaw, New Years Eve under the space needle in Seattle, the brilliant bar in Berlin and the bookstores in London…

And the wish list grows…
Australia
Vietnam
Cambodia
Laos
Back to Greece – maybe Santorini next time?
The North American east coast – from Montreal, to the Martimes and on to New York
More of Sweden
More of Norway
More of Spain
Rome again
More of the Netherlands, absolutely

… I blame the stampede leather.

What’s on your list?

Tomatina Festival. Buñol, Spain. August 2007. Hands down the funnest 2 hours of my life. I can still hear someone screaming “I’m allergic to tomatoes!” And just the screaming in general (hilarious). Didn’t eat tomatoes for a while after that and I found a tomato seed in my ear close to a week later. The Camino and the Tomatina festival in one summer – yeah, that was a good couple of months.. Jump to the Tomatina photo set on flickr

Istanbul, and then some.

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A million first impressions of Istanbul. This massive city is a brilliantly noisy, pushy, fascinating, tough and delicate swirl of tastes, sounds and sights. Definitely not European, but not really Asian either, it’s something quite its own. Our 5 day stay had us making our way down narrow market streets and up wide promenades in sweltering heat and scorching sunshine. Turkish teas and gritty thick coffee, water melon and roasted cobs of corn. Delicious cuisine (although meat is just ‘meat’ – no specifics). People, people and more people. Drivers leaning on horns. Stray cats nearly everywhere you look. Ramshackle housing and architecturally marvelous mosques.

Istanbul has long been a merchant town – there is no doubt about that. Gorgeous textiles and shining ceramics – all propped and polished to perfection. An endless choice of colours, shapes and textures. Don’t look too long (a glance is enough) – and the shop owner/cafe worker/ trinket peddler is in your face with an amazing coincidence – his best friend happens to be from the country you’re from! Now that calls for a ‘special price just for you!’

Mega sense of humor- some (they know you’ve heard it all a thousand times and have a little fun with it), and a warmth of character one might miss encountering with more regularity elsewhere. You tune out the aggression a bit more each day, but it never ceases to violate your senses just a little (which, if nothing else, might be just the thing you’re looking for..).

Watch your pockets and trust no one. Market merchants and café managers are making a bundle – one price for locals – double, triple, quadruple that for tourists (because it’s possible) – which is both understandable and infuriating – knowing you get to play the fool no matter how good you are at haggling (which I am not). But never mind, you’re here to explore – and there is no better place for it. From the Galata Bridge to the Grand Bazaar, the New Mosque to the Blue Mosque, the side streets of Sultahamet and the great dome of Haghia Sophia – every place fascinates.

Take Istanbul for what it is though, and it quickly reveals itself to be one of the most fantastic, and at first glance – wonderfully chaotic, places to lose yourself in. The calls to prayer are mesmerizing to listen to (even at 4am) and the mosques are imposing, magical.. even calming. 5 days barely covers an introduction. To know Istanbul would take a lifetime, and then some.

See more of this Istanbul photo set on Flickr

Have you been here? What did you think?

A few CPH favourites

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Copenhagen is teeming with fresh cafés and cozy places to savour a pint or two. My favourites range from über modern to trashy chic, but they all share a special sense of hygge (no one does hygge/coziness like the Danes) as well as some pretty fantastic food.

Listed are the places that put a smile on my face – whether it’s coffee with a girlfriend, a dreamy dinner with my boyfriend or pints with friends on a Friday. They’re located city centre for the most part, which is not to say that there aren’t a ton of great places here in Amager too – there are – I just tend to gravitate back to my old locals (having previously lived in Nyhavn). The ‘new locals’ will come at a later date (after some more exploring) – but for now, these are my highlights.

*I’m always keen to try new places – so if you’ve got your own favourites – I invite you to share them…

Café Kalaset
A happy discovery. Located basement level around the corner from Nørreport St., Café Kalaset serves up some hearty home style cooking in cozy quarters. Nostalgia in the form of about a hundred old radios are mounted to the walls, chairs and tables are mismatched to perfection and the music harps back to good old high school days – think The Cure and DM (there I go and date myself already).
http://www.spottedbylocals.com/copenhagen/kaffe-kalaset

Tight
Tight is a more recent find – it’s jointly owned by a Frenchman, an Aussie, and a Canadian (which, with bias, could easily explain the level of super friendly service more common to Canada & Oz). Their brunch is set out in 9 little dishes, and while a little tough to tackle, it tastes as good as it looks. Visit Tight if you’re needing a laid back place to spend a few afternoon hours. There’s no posing here. http://tight-cph.dk/

Skuespilhuset
Go to the café at Skuespilhuset during summer months if you’re craving water side drinks and a view that’s unbeatable. They serve a decent brunch inside, but if you ask nicely sometimes they’ll let you take it outside where you can sit in the sunshine. In the evenings there’s an outdoor bar set up, where they make a mighty fine espresso martini – great place to wrap up an evening at the opera or a play – when the place is buzzing with people dressed in their theatre-going finest. http://ibyen.dk/restauranter/article515161.ece

Nyhavn (the sunny side, on a Friday afternoon)
THE local default. There is no better place to be on a sunny Friday afternoon with friends. Skip the over-priced pints at the café tables and bring your favourite ales from the local super market and park yourself along the canal edge for a few hours. The atmosphere is relaxed, alive and a real mix of people – local/tourist, businessman/backpacker – a great place to gear up or gear down. (Or, as happens quite often – your gear down plans turn into a gear-up, and Nyhavn becomes, yet again, the start point for a brilliant night out). http://www.copenhagenet.dk/CPH-Nyhavn.htm

Den Lille Fede
Cozy, smart, oh so fine and just the place for a delicately delicious meal and lovely conversation. They’ll match the wine to each course if you like, and start you off with a welcome glass of champagne. Just off Kongens Nytorv, Den Lille Fede (Little Fatty) is a blissful mix of old locale with curved ceilings and all, and modern décor straight out of a design magazine.
http://www.denlillefede.dk/

Paludans Bog & Café
I can’t resist this café/bookstore combo. A strong cafe latté, surrounded by all those books – it’s a match made in heaven. They serve some simple dishes as well if you’re feeling peckish. It’s located in the middle of one of my favourite streets in this city – Fiolstræde (in Copenhagen’s Latin Quarter) http://www.spottedbylocals.com/copenhagen/paludans-bog-cafe

Plan B
Tiny place, located not far from Nørreport station with a selection that’ll impress even the most fickle of beer drinkers. The owner is an avid vinyl enthusiast (records, not s&m… although the later I couldn’t vouch for) – so be ready to hear a real range – last time we were there I went nuts for the Brigitte Bardot/ Serge Gainsbourg album he was playing. Try their cherry ale – it’s to die for. http://www.cafeplanb.dk/

Thoughts or recommendations? I’d love to hear them.