Category Archives: living in denmark

Copenhagen Christmas

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Christmas / Jul 2011Wishing all of you a Happy Christmas and some days off that end with a big breath out, shoulders relaxed and a smile on your face.

It was just the two of us this year but somehow we managed to pull it off: the entire dinner (with only two near disasters) the dessert, the almond prize (50/50 odds this year were in Jan’s favour), the twinkly lights and heaps of Christmas cozy. Yay for Skype and a good long chat with family back home – really missed them this year. Just a few short days now to recollect and get ready to welcome the great big gift to come. Keep everything crossed..

Magstræde + Snaregade

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Frederiksberg
Magstræde/Snaregade CPH
Snaregade CPH
I love this walk through Magstræde and Snaregade with their curving cobblestone streets and colourful old buildings. It’s becoming one of my favourite routes – today on our way to the National Museum for a little anniversary lunch and a bit of poking around. Very low key and a sweet afternoon together. Just what we needed.

Café Hovedtelegrafen

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Café Hovedtelegrafen
Café Hovedtelegrafen
Amagertorv CPH
It’s the endless hidden jems (like Café Hovedtelegrafen, the rooftop café above the Post & Tele Museum at Købmagergade 37) that make this city so easy to love. I have tried, trust me I have tried, to feel tired of this place enough so that I can up and leave and move back to my beloved Vancouver… but then the clock tower at City Hall chimes the sun down, there is a magic glow in the Nordic evening light and I feel my feet and my heart ground themselves here for a while longer.

Gilleleje Havn

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Gilleleje Havn
Gilleleje Havn
Gilleleje Havn
Gilleleje HavnGreat to have visitors and extra reason to play tourist in our own back yard. After a lovely drive up the coast we spent the day in Gilleleje, the most northerly town here on Sjælland. Off-season visit and short time frame aside (sun sets now at 16:30!) – it was a good little walk through the misty fishing village and a perfect excuse to stop in for a cozy pub lunch.

Autumn in CPH

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Autumn in CPH. Kongens Nytorv
Autumn in CPH. AmagerAn easy afternoon bike ride through the city. Savouring the quiet and the colours.

Sunday brunch + flea market

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Loppemarked på Onkel Dannys Plads, Halmtorvet
Sunday flea market
Sunday flea market
Sunday flea market
Sunday flea marketSunday morning brunch with the girls at Mandela in Vesterbro – October 2nd and we could still sit outdoors – followed by a good poke around the local flea market (both at Onkel Dannys Plads, very handy). I’m always in awe of friends equipped with a sharp eye for little treasures and ‘just right’ vintage wears – a talent I definitely can’t boast. Love people watching on afternoons like this.

{Edit: Even the dog looks suitably second-hand..}

Weekend Walks

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Friday Walks - Nyhavn
Friday Walks - Nyhavn
Friday Walks - Amagertorv
Friday Walks - Lille KongensgadeA fresh sunny start to the weekend with a stroll through the city centre with stops for coffee, a little lunch and lot of talk about the months and adjustments to come. This next step is going to be a doozy. I can’t wait (but good thing too there are some more months to wrap our heads around it all).

Elections

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Election DayVoted in the Danish national elections this week – and watched as millions of Danes celebrated the marginal victory of the Social Democratic party – putting Denmark’s first woman Prime Minister into power. While I’m proud for Denmark in that regard, I also worry for Denmark.

Like most other western countries, Canada included – this election was no different in the sense that a shift in party power had as much to do with a basic desire for change as it did with sensible campaign platforms – or lack thereof (I base this on the fact that 1 million out of 4.07 million eligable voters where still undecided the day before the election). The last 10 years have been under right wing government – so naturally we’ll have some years ahead of us now under left wing. Standard democratic cycle stuff. If this were an American shift to left wing government, I’d be hurrahing. I’m referencing America here rather than Canada (which is slightly more socialist) simply because the worst case American user-pay scernio is repeated again and again by Danish leftists as arguement for why right wing should pack it’s bags. Thing is, in Scandinavia, even the most right wing goverment is light years more left wing than American left – so the point is somewhat moot.

Fact: Denmark has an amazing social safety net. I don’t think anyone in their right mind would argue with that or feel anything but admiration. Fact: Danes pay for this safety net with one of the world’s highest tax rates. These are facts irregardless of left or right wing government – because this sense of fairness, of responsibility towards each other, is such an integral part of Danish culture. I love and admire this about the Danish system.

Where my question comes in then – is where that sense of fairness finds it’s balance. Is it fair to take more from those who already pay the most? Won’t increasing income tax rates (as proposed) further sink motivation levels among a growing middle class when what the economy needs is everyone to pitch in a little more? Is it fair to allow the unemployed to sit 4 years with unemployment income when studies have shown that after 1.5 years you’re actually doing people a disservice by allowing enough time for demotivaton to set in? Couldn’t the money saved by the 2 year cut-back plan be better spent on self-selected education (allowing people to gain a skill set more relevant to them/ more conducive to re-entering the work force?) – or on education in general? Or lower student to teacher ratios in classrooms and daycares? I’ve heard the 2 year cut-back described as scandalous – mind you by acquaintances holding out for their dream jobs (sorry, but is the middle of a global financial crisis really the best time for that?) and by countless people in the grocery store queu and in cafés – laughing and boasting about not having to lift a finger – why should they? Their words, not mine – and it doesn’t sound very fair for taxpayers if you ask me.

I am all for paying my taxes and doing my part in a system that supports those who need it most (regardless of which country I live in). I’ve been blessed with ample opportunity – some have come from the system (in my case Canadian) some have come from crazy long hours and a lot of hard work. But what strikes me is that a system is not much unlike an employer, a parent or a coach. When individual choice, responsibility, and regular old elbow grease are swapped out for “the system (the bigger power) will take care of it” – don’t we lower the bar? Expect less of people and you will get less. Let people be helpless and more people will feel helpless. Is that the best way to give people a boost? I’m not always sure that it is.

In the same vein – wouldn’t it be fair to reward those who support the system with hard work and long hours by allowing them to keep a little more of their hard-earned income? There is a growing shortage of taxpayers in Denmark (for every 5 that retire from the market, there are only 4 to replace them). How about shifting the top-tax bracket to a level where it is actually worth swapping the free-time for extra input? I’m not talking bank CEO’s here (which seems to be the convenient mental picture held by many leftist when they think of people earning within top tax bracket). No, I’m talking about people with regular-jobs: nurses, teachers, etc. When their salaries enter the top tax bracket – isn’t it time to reconsider adjusting that bracket? Wouldn’t easing the tax burden also attract needed foreign workers to help fill the input gap? Increasing the tax burden keeps workers and multinationals (employers) away – it’s a given that seems incredibly overlooked by the extreme left.

For all the debates and showdowns this election season – I’ve only heard the right communicate any kind of consideration for all Danes: that fair involves two sides – meaning both fair for the person SUPPORTED by the system and fair for the person SUPPORTING the system. We will each pay into and draw from the system at various points in our lives and I’d like to think that during that time – the system raised the bar and allowed all of us to take more responsibility for our economic situations as individuals (rewarding rather than penalizing sound financial choices like growing a savings account or investing in one’s pension) – but also that it made sure that the sense of fairness so well embraced by the Danes goes both ways – regardless of where we are within it at any given time.

My hope (like many others) is that the new government coalition – with all it’s differences – will find that balance. Elections are over and in agreement with the victor or not, we can only be open, give it a little time, and hope that they figure out how to direct enough to those who need it – without making it unfair for those who support it, or worse – economically unfeasable for outside investment looking in – because that can’t help Denmark much at all: least of all those who need the boost.

Torvehallerne København

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Torvehallerne København
Torvehallerne København
Torvehallerne KøbenhavnThere are few things Copenhagen doesn’t have, but a local market has long been one of them. Last week the newly rebuilt and long awaited Torvehallerne at Israels Plads was opened to the public – hurrah! We had a quick look around yesterday (the first day I was on two legs again) eyeing the gorgeous displays and sampling a few tasties. That said – it’s no Granville Island (to be fair: for all my hunting and avid market-going in all the cities we’ve travelled to – only Queen Victoria Market in Melbourne even comes close to the market bliss that is Granville Island Market in Vancouver).

Copenhagen Torvehallerne is not a local farmer’s market. I suppose I was hoping for a little more of the hippy – with a wide selection of organic produce from nearby farms at slightly higher but not out of reach prices. To the contrary – it’s at the other end of the spectrum, consisting of a few glass roofed isles filled with high end and beautifully packaged wares – and while I’ll be the first to admit that I am a sucker for beautifully designed packaging – I hadn’t associated the term “market” with “posh”. You might say it’s another Magasin food floor – but with better atmosphere. Eye candy yes, but a weekly shopping destination, no. Too bad. But what it WILL BE great for is a coffee and a tasty little splurge with girlfriends – and we can never have enough of those.

Oh – and I LOVE that traditional butchers in DK wear bowlers. Aren’t they charming?

Outdoor Opera in Ørestad

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Opera theatre in ØrestadOpera theatre in ØrestadOpera theatre in ØrestadGreat to see more and more cultural events like this out here in the windy neighbourhood of Ørestad (next door at VM Bjerget). Street opera and freestyle dance amidts modern architecture – a little bit of interesting on a thursday night.